Knitting for the Perfect Fit
Learn how to get exactly the right fit for your garment.
2/23/20263 min read
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Knitting for the perfect fit can be a challenge, but getting the results you want is incredibly rewarding! The nice thing about knitting garments is that they are completely customizable, unlike store-bought clothing. If you’re putting in the effort to make a garment by hand, you should take the time to plan it out to get exactly the right fit.
Taking Accurate Measurements
Taking measurements accurately can be difficult, and it’s best done with the help of a partner or friend. Some tailors also provide this as a service. It’s important to stand up (as you’re able) straight and tall, but stay relaxed. No sucking in or tensing up, as this will affect the accuracy of the measurements. Use a flexible fabric tape measure and be sure not to pull it in or wrap it too loosely around your body. Write the measurements down and date them to keep track of how they fluctuate over time.
Choosing the Right Size
It’s important to note that knitting patterns give measurements for the finished size of the garment, not the bodies that will wear them. Designers will often state the intended ease of the garment. The ease tells you how fitted the garment is supposed to be. Negative ease means it stretches to fit over the body, positive ease means it is oversized or fits loosely, and zero ease means it is form-fitting but not snug. Add the amount of ease you want for this garment to your body measurements to choose which pattern size will fit the way you want it to. Keep in mind that size names can be deceiving and inaccurate; it is best to choose the size based on the measurements themselves.
Swatching
I know many people hate making gauge swatches, but if you want to make a garment with an exact fit, it is super important to knit a large swatch and block it. Having an accurate gauge measurement is key to getting the exact fit you want in your garment. I particularly like this quick gauge ruler and row gauge ruler for easily determining your gauge. If you have too few stitches per 4”/10cm, try smaller needles, and if you have too many, try bigger needles. If I switch needle sizes, I like to continue on the same swatch with a purl row in between to show where it changed. Write down what needle sizes you used for each section so you don’t forget. Blocking your swatch in the same way you will block the finished garment is an important step, as it can affect your gauge. This is especially true with certain fibers that can stretch dramatically when blocked, or with particular stitch patterns, like lace.
Adjusting Sizes
Bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and sometimes your measurements will be different than the measurements for one particular size. Adjusting the body or sleeve length is the easiest modification to make, other shaping adjustments will take some math. Check out my blog post on modifying knitting patterns here. And if you want to really dive deep into the math, check out my book available for Kindle here, or the PDF version here.
Try On As You Knit
As you knit a garment, you can try it on at various stages. This is especially important to do before and after shaping, to check the neck opening of a sweater, or to check the length of the body or sleeves before binding off. These extension cords are great for holding your stitches while trying on your garment.
Blocking
If you’re knitting a garment in pieces, be sure to block them before seaming. Blocking will give the garment better drape and can fix a lot of issues with tension and small size discrepancies. Knowing the fiber content you’re working with can affect how much change will happen with blocking. I go into more detail on how to block here.
I hope this post gives you the confidence and tools you need to get exactly the right fit in your knitting. Happy stitching!
