Reverse Engineering Knitwear
Learn how to recreate knitwear without a pattern!
9/8/20252 min read
Have you ever seen an overpriced knitted garment in a store and thought, “I could make that!”? Whether or not your handmade version is cheaper can be debatable, but it is certainly more rewarding. Here I will explain how you can recreate masterpieces by reverse engineering them and writing your own pattern.
Construction
First, assess the construction of the garment. Should it be knit in pieces and seamed, knit in the round, or one piece, knit flat? Is it knit top-down or bottom-up? What cast-on and bind-off techniques are used? Also consider what kind of construction might be easiest for you to knit while getting identical or similar results to the inspiration piece. Here, you can figure out what shaping has been done as well. Where are there increases and decreases? How quickly does the shape change? If you can, take measurements at various points in the garment and record them to construct the pattern later. Take note of the approximate gauge, paying attention to the weight of the yarn.
Stitch Patterns
Next, analyze the stitch pattern used. Are there colorwork motifs? Cables? Lace? Texture using knits and purls? You may want to refer to a stitch dictionary for more complex patterns. If possible, take note of how the stitch pattern gets repeated, both vertically and horizontally. How does the pattern change at seams (if applicable), edges, or borders? Try to recreate the stitch pattern in a swatch and match the gauge of the garment as closely as possible.
Measurements
The nice thing about reverse engineering and creating your own garment is that you can adjust the measurements if you need to. If you want to match the inspiration piece, take measurements of it, staying mindful of the ease. If you want to adjust, use your body’s measurements as a starting point and decide how much ease you want in your garment. (For those who don’t know, ease describes the difference between the garment and body measurements. Positive ease means length is added, making a baggy fit; negative ease means length is subtracted, making a snug fit; zero ease is form-fitting.)
Write the Pattern
Using your gauge and measurements, figure out the stitch counts at important parts of the pattern. From there, you can work out shaping and your stitch pattern repeats. If you need help working out the math for these, check out my book, Unraveling the Math, in the shop here. There are lots of resources out there to help you with the construction of various knitwear pieces. If you have a specific piece in mind that you want to recreate, use the form below to send me an email and I can help you find the right resource.
Knit!
After all that, it’s time to knit! Check your work as you go, measuring key points to make sure the shaping is working as intended. Make sure your stitch pattern looks good through increases and decreases, and make adjustments as needed. I recommend using lifelines often, just in case you need to frog and make edits to your pattern.
Ethical Note
Please do not copy other knitwear designers patterns or designs! I give you this knowledge to use on store bought knitwear or hand knits that do not have a pattern available anymore. Selling copies of other people’s patterns or recreations of their patterns based on their designs violates copyright, and should be avoided. Use this reverse engineering process for learning, personal use, and making modifications only.
I hope this has given you the confidence to recreate a knitted piece! If you’d like any help with this process, feel free to use the form below to send me an email. Happy stitching!
