Knitted Fabric Properties
Learn about knitting structure
3/2/20263 min read
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Structure and Construction
Knitted fabric may be created in similar ways, but can have many different properties based on fiber content, stitch pattern, and gauge. As you create the interlocking loops that form the stitches, the structure will have a particular stretch, drape, and shape memory. Knit and purl stitches are opposites of each other. When you knit a stitch, it looks like a purl stitch on the other side of the fabric, and vice versa. The knit side looks like a V, as it is the bottom part of the loop, whereas the top of the loop and the yarn between the stitches show up as bumps on the purl side. The knit stitches are both wider and shorter than the purl stitches. This is why stockinette stitch (with all knit stitches on one side, and all purls on the other) tends to curl towards the purls on the sides and towards the knits along the top and bottom edges. Since garter stitch alternates knit and purl rows, the fabric doesn’t curl, but the purl rows stick out, creating squishy ridges. Ribbing has excellent stretch and memory, as it tends to pull inward and retain its shape, making it great for cuffs, necklines, and brims.
Stretch and Recovery
Knitted fabric stretches in multiple directions. However, not all fibers will retain their shape, and some can stretch out too much, especially when they get wet. Wool is well known for its elasticity. It tends to bounce back to its original shape and responds well to blocking. Alpaca is often offered as an alternative to wool, especially for people with allergies or skin sensitivities. But it’s important to keep in mind that it has much less elasticity, so you need to be more careful when blocking alpaca. Cotton, linen, and silk are even less elastic, and on top of that, cotton tends to be heavy and can stretch out of shape very easily. In general, it is best practice to take care not to overstretch a knitted fabric when wet blocking, lay it flat to dry, and store it in a drawer, as opposed to hanging it, which can stretch it out.
Warmth and Breathability
Many yarns, but especially those made of wool, have little pockets of air between the fibers, creating natural insulation. Wool is also naturally water-resistant, keeping you warm even if the fabric is damp. Looser and open fabrics, such as lace, are more breathable. When you knit with smaller needles than what is recommended for the yarn, you get a denser fabric. Aran sweaters are traditionally knit this way to make them more wind-resistant.
Drape and Movement
You have probably heard other knitters talk about the drape of a fabric, but what does it mean? It describes how a knitted fabric moves and flows while it’s being worn. The desired drape of a knitted fabric will depend on what you’re making and what you’re using it for. The drape largely depends on the stitch density. Most yarns come with a range of recommended needle sizes for that weight. These will generally produce a medium-density knitted fabric. Increasing your needle size will give you a more open and loose fabric with greater drape, and decreasing your needle size will give a denser fabric with less drape. Before making your swatch for a project, think about what kind of movement you want the garment to have. This can determine which needle size you start with. Remember, swatching isn’t just about getting the right gauge, it’s about finding the right drape for the garment you’re planning to make.
Texture
There are a few different factors that can affect the texture of a knitted fabric. First, there is the stitch pattern that you use. Cables, bobbles, and stitch patterns that use a combination of knits and purls all give a fabric greater texture. How much texture can be achieved by these patterns depends on the fiber content of the yarn. Smooth, inelastic yarns, such as those made with plant-based fibers, produce better stitch definition, making the textural changes in the fabric more visible and crisp. Fuzzy yarns that have a halo, like mohair or alpaca, will not show the texture of the fabric quite as well as the smooth yarns. Twist and ply also play a role in the stitch definition of the knitted fabric that the yarn produces. More plies and a tighter twist often provide greater stitch definition in the resulting fabric.
Durability
Wool is resilient, but friction can still wear it down and cause the fabric to pill easily. It is often blended with a synthetic fiber like nylon or polyester for sock yarn to add durability. I also want to remind you that you can repair knitted fabrics that have worn out. Keeping a record of what yarn you used for a particular project can be very helpful if you have to repair it later on. I have this project planner, and I love it! If you no longer have any of the spare yarn, try a visible mending technique with a contrasting color.
I’ve created a PDF as a quick reference guide to how certain fibers behave. Download it here! Happy stitching!
